We met with Suzy Menkes, the world’s most important fashion critic and designers’ nightmare, in New York. The icon states that “Style does not appear on the streets of New York, but in the fashion weeks – very few people know how to dress.”
Location is The Lotte New York Palace, formerly known as, Helmsley Palace Hotel. Here, we are at a very elegant invitation. We will watch the fashion show where the designers’ new creations are exhibited, and I am deeply excited. For the first time, a Turkish underwear brand has entered the official fashion show calendar of Fashion Week in New York. The 2024-2025 Spring-Summer collection of the ‘25th Hour Lingerie’, is being introduced.
The guestlist is from various press bubbling with influencers and editors. The guests are seated left and right, stare at each other in colorful outfits and handle their champagne flutes. I observe the loud conversations happening in the room. Everyone is very happy. A song plays in the background: “We are all stunning…”; suddenly, the hum in the hall gives way to whispers, and wandering sounds come out of varying octaves. I assume a star has arrived, looking left, and right. Do not see neither a model nor a movie star. A woman’s voice approaches me as she makes her way through the crowd. “Could you please move out of the way?” And that is when I realize that Suzy Menkes, Samurai Suzy, is standing before me. Yes, that is her!
Samurai Suzy is the most recognizable name in the fashion industry along with Anna Wintour. She worked as a fashion editor for major publications such as New York Times, and became the first international writer for Vogue magazine. She is one of the few elite honored with writing about the fashion world for years! So is the case that many famous fashion houses have tried to evade Menkes from their shows due to the harsh style, and failed to succeed.
After tearing apart the Dior collection in 2001, LVMH banned Menkes from participating in the fashion shows of all brands within the group – a huge scandal for the fashion industry. Menkes, on the other hand, said, “I am a mountain and can’t be destroyed by such small blows, honey”, and made the following statement: “I was fired from Versace before because I revealed that Versace stole safety pin design clothes from American designer Betsey Johnson. There are always bullies in the fashion industry who think they can get you to do whatever they want. Again, I stand firm, and do not hesitate to speak my mind.”
Heading back to the invitation, I am ecstatically observing Menkes from head to toe. Her style resembles a grandma walking around with a shopping net in the market. My eyes raise along my brows starting from her orthopedic shoes, to tan colored thick opaque socks, to the knee-length skirt to tunic-like long cardigan. Under normal circumstances, the security guards would have chased her through the doors, noting that it is a private party with no outside access. However, when it comes to Menkes, I think that, perhaps for the first time in fashion history, appearances are being overlooked.
I approached Menkes silently while she was examining the sexy products of the brand and attaining information. I was curious about her view of New Yorkers’ use of fashion in their daily lives. Menkes handles me with grossly disinterested but English politeness: “Excuse me, may I take your question again?”
What are your thoughts on NewYorkers’ fashion? What do you think of New Yorkers’ dress styles?
“The problem I see in New Yorkers is their lack of style. Check out the fashion capitals of the world. Examine not only the fashion shows, but also the photo shoots taken on the street. You have probably seen New Yorkers dressed out as horrific. Frankly, they do not have a catchy style. Of course, there should be elements, and reasons why they dress this way; maybe it is something to do with psychology, pace, and desire; I can not see a well-dressed mass. However, they do so much shopping that I see dozens of brand name bags in their hands all the time. What I do not understand is how they cannot create proper outfit combinations.” With all due respect, unfortunately, very few New Yorkers know how to dress. You have the material, but do not know how to use it.
Frankly, I both agree, and disagree with her thoughts. From my point of view, I see that they do not invest a lot of time in clothing, they take it to the second plan, so dressing is not an urgency.
For some reason, I am not surprised by the pessimistic picture Suzy paints. Icon, meanwhile, continues at full throttle: How could a city’s population with such a strong economy, and all the important designers, and fashion houses residing, be so inadequate in terms of clothing, and creativity? “Sorry, I have to go to the Rick Owens fashion show” she states, I stare behind Menkes as she parts her way. The next day, my pessimistic mood is saved by Menkes’ article: She declares the underwear designs of the ‘25th Hour Lingerie’ as objects of passion and lust.
I understand why she is referred to as the “Samurai”. Menkes is a tough, but compassionate teacher: She does not show neglect, grades all by their honest work and needless to say, will tear you apart if you are failing in her eyes.
As for now, I pass my contact information to her in comfort, with mutual agreement about New Yorkers. Let’s see what invitation, when, and how we will meet again. Who knows, maybe next time I will cross paths with Cathy Horyn. Do you think her answers will vary to the same questions? Will she be as sincere and brave as Suzy?
All the fun and the best of love,
Seda Oturan
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English