‘Fashion Changes, Style Endures!
THE RADICAL TRANSFORMATION OF FASHION
Coco Chanel is one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. Her favorite saying, “Fashion always moves forward! There is no going back in fashion!” reflects the fashion icon Chanel, who revolutionized the fashion of the 1900s… I now understand why she said this after delving into her life.
Coco Chanel focused on her goal to liberate women from the clutches of corsets and encourage them to move freely for their freedom. At a time when Dior was attempting to bring corsets back into fashion, Chanel reacted strongly, intensifying the rivalry between their brands. To express her reaction to this situation, Chanel used the expression, “Fashion always moves forward! There is no going back in fashion,” defending her own design philosophy and fashion.
I have been a fan of Chanel since my childhood. I explored her life through books, documentaries, and films. Of course, Chanel captivated me with her entire life journey! Fortunately, I had the opportunity to visit the Chanel exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. This experience became a source of motivation for me to create my own writing, inspired by Chanel’s life and creativity.
‘Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel’ carried a name she disliked from birth. This name was given to her by a nun in the orphanage, Gabrielle Bonheur. Chanel wanted to conceal and alter her past; she even falsified her birth date to appear 10 years younger. Not only that, but she also fabricated stories about coming from a wealthy family, claiming that her father always called her Coco, and her father went to America for a business trip, and her aunts took care of her. She had a challenging childhood, but as she discovered her talents, doors began to open in her life.
Chanel’s recognition as “Coco” began in the late 15th century when she started singing in entertainment venues in Paris. With her song “Sheni Coco” and performances on stage, she gained great admiration. Every night, the audience was enchanted by her beautiful performances while sipping their drinks in cabarets.
The well-known song “Sheni Coco” was a turning point in her life. With this song and performance gaining immense popularity, she began to be known as “Coco.” Additionally, Chanel made a living by working as a seamstress during the day and singing as a chanteuse at night. It is not surprising that Chanel had such a significant influence on people in those years. Wherever she was and whatever she did, she always attracted attention with her aura…
Looking at the history of fashion; the word “fashion,” derived from the Latin “Facio,” is known as “fazon” in French and “fashion” in English in the Middle Ages. Although fashion means temporary innovations, it is considered one of the first reflections of human creativity. Considering how it evolved and its role in society, the desire of humans to look beautiful and differentiate themselves began to take shape in the 1900s. At this point, Coco Chanel’s designs, creating an original and contemporary perspective in her era, pioneered a new era in fashion! Chanel’s designs, challenging restrictive clothing norms for women, fundamentally changed the concept of dressing. Chanel’s designs offered women comfort and elegance, creating an original style. This pioneering work reflects Chanel’s influential role in the fashion world and the era that intertwined with women’s struggle for freedom.
Chanel’s revolutionary designs, her efforts to simplify fashion with minimalist and functional clothing items, made her globally renowned. In the 1910s, she was frequently mentioned in magazines and advertising campaigns. When Time magazine published “The 100 Most Influential People of the Century,” Coco Chanel was the only fashion figure on the list. In the shadow of World War I, in a complex fashion world, challenging traditional norms in women’s clothing was such great courage… Perhaps this was her expression of life: SIMPLIFY.
While revolutionizing fashion, Chanel aimed to liberate women from corsets and heavy, exaggerated clothing styles. According to her, women should also dress comfortably and elegantly; therefore, she integrated pants into women’s clothing, combining feminine and masculine styles. Advocating for women’s freedom and expressing their bodies comfortably, she created collections that could be used in everyday life. In Chanel’s fashion, there was a rebellion against traditional norms and a call for liberation.
Chanel’s other passion was horseback riding. Perhaps she was greatly influenced by the comfort of equestrian attire; hence, she tried to adapt that masculine stance into her collections. She was the first to use a cotton jersey in women’s clothing. Among her groundbreaking designs, the “Little Black Dress” ve Chanel No. 5 perfume stand out. The Little Black Dress, known for its simplicity and elegance, became a timeless piece in every era, while Chanel No. 5 achieved revolutionary success in the perfume world, becoming a classic fragrance.
One of the major sources of inspiration behind Chanel’s bold steps in fashion was the French aristocrat Étienne Balsan. Chanel would cut and sew Balsan’s clothes in her spare time, creating new outfits for herself. This led her to create designs inspired by men’s clothing, integrating pants into women’s fashion and taking incredibly bold steps in the fashion industry. Chanel’s acquaintance with Balsan not only helped her establish a place in high society but also provided significant advantages to her fashion career through relationships with famous personalities. Her closeness to aristocrats and renowned figures in high society allowed her to make a name for herself with exclusive designs.
When Étienne Balsan introduced Chanel to the English nobleman Arthur Edward “Boy” Capel, it turned into one of the most captivating love stories of Chanel. However, her love affair with Capel was complicated due to his marriage to another woman, preventing Chanel and Capel from being together completely. The tragic accident in which “Boy” Capel lost his life in 1919 deeply affected Chanel and plunged her into a long period of mourning. This painful loss was considered a turning point in Chanel’s life and profoundly impacted her emotionally.
While Boy Capel was alive, Chanel opened her first store in Paris at 21 Cambon Street with the financial support of Boy Capel and Étienne Balsan in 1910. In 1913, during a trip organized by Boy Capel, Chanel was taken to Deauville for the first time. The experience of seeing the sea during this visit was unforgettable for Chanel. In the same year, she would open another boutique in Deauville and expand her collections. The store in Deauville, especially during the summer months, attracted the attention of high society, becoming the center of the fashion world. Chanel’s trip organized by Boy Capel was a significant moment for her as she saw the sea for the first time. In 1915, she further elevated her success by opening a third boutique in Biarritz. The combination of jersey fabrics with Chanel’s designs garnered great interest among high society, further enhancing her reputation. In 1918, Chanel was officially registered as a fashion designer and purchased a villa at 31 Cambon Street (Paris) to establish her own fashion house. During Boy Capel’s lifetime, Chanel’s rise in the fashion world gained significant momentum.
Chanel made headlines in magazines with her acquisition of the famous La Pausa. The property, situated in a specially designed small village overlooking the bay to Menton, has an extraordinary location. Charles-Roux says, “In 1928, Chanel traveled to Roquebrune and gave herself an extraordinary view of an olive grove and the Mediterranean.” La Pausa symbolized Chanel’s independence. She designed every detail herself and had the villa built as she wished. La Pausa, featured in the March 1930 issue of American Vogue as “Mlle Chanel’s House,” was surrounded by olive trees, lavender, and rosemary, making it an ideal place to relax and unwind.
Visitors to Chanel’s villa included famous names such as … were also frequent visitors to La Pausa. In 1938, Chanel lent La Pausa to Dali for six months, where he worked on an exhibition he would open in New York. Chanel’s time at La Pausa served as an inspiration for Dali’s famous still life painting, “L’Instant Sublime.”
The philosophy embraced by Chanel has been a pioneer of change and innovation in the fashion world, leaving a timeless impact with her works. Let’s bid farewell with her memorable words: ‘I drink champagne only when I’m in love, and when I’m not.’ Additionally, with the statements ‘Fashion always moves forward! There is no going back to fashion!’ ve ‘Fashion Changes, Style Endures!’ Chanel will be remembered as a contemporary and timeless icon with her life and design philosophy.
Following Coco Chanel’s departure in 1971, under the leadership of Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel has become a brand that carries the elegance of the past into the present. Lagerfeld preserved Chanel’s iconic style while combining it with modern touches and contemporary designs. After Lagerfeld’s passing, Virginie Viard, who took over as the head designer of Chanel, continues to follow in Lagerfeld’s footsteps, striving to sustain the brand’s legacy. However, each designer has their unique touch, and it is natural for a brand to evolve over time. Therefore, it is possible to say that Virginie Viard has the potential to inspire future generations by infusing her own style into Chanel. However, this process may vary depending on the nature of fashion and design. Let’s watch and see together, with my best wishes.
All the fun and the best of love,
Seda Oturan
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